October 25, 2015

Paris Brocantes Loot Shoot

Shopping Les Puces in Paris is enough reason for me to hop on a plane to Paris, and this trip I hit up both Porte de Vanves and Les Puces de Saint-Ouen (and successfully so I might add). While Porte de Vanves is a bargain-hunter's mecca for wares easily packed in luggage (smalls, linens and artwork), Les Puces de Saint-Ouen is a sprawling design mecca with inventive re-purposed goods (which means, generally more expensive). Beware, a trip to Saint-Ouen is likely to result in hiring a shipper to transport your over-sized treasures back home.

My first shopping stop in Paris is always the Porte de Vanves flea market, which is held every Saturday and Sunday near the Porte de Vanves metro stop. I prefer to fly into Paris either Friday or Saturday, so that I can leverage my jet lag to arrive at the brocante the next morning at an ungodly hour. Since Les Puces de Saint-Ouen is open on Monday, I save this Puce for after I have done my damage at Porte de Vanves. Plus, the vendors are more willing to bargain (more than the obligatory 5-10% discount) on Monday because Monday is "their Sunday" and the stalls are relatively quiet. The downside of this strategy is that many of the vendors are closed on Monday, but, hey, c'est la vie (plus, if I had any success on Saturday or Sunday, I have less money to spend by Monday anyways)!

I put together this little loot shoot for you to share in the success of my brocantes adventures from this trip.

My loot this time around was focused on paintings, maps and religious artifacts (oh, how I love broken religion artifacts...both beautiful and a political statement about the state of modern religion). The terrible wig on this oil pastel stopped me in my tracks, and for a mere 30Euros, it was mine!

I fell in love with this stately pig at Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. There's just something about the juxtaposition of the antique gilded frame against the kitschy painting.

The carvings on this wooden holy water crucifix are divine, and the mother of pearl in-laid cross and seashell basin were just too beautiful for me to pass.

I love a vintage map, and this cloth book unfolds to a road map of the Paris area. It was love at first site. I only wish I would have purchased the other road maps! The wooden rosary from Lourdes will decorate one of my statutes at home.

Brocantes Shopping Tips

If you're hitting Les Puces de Saint-Ouent, strategize your plan of attack beforehand. This is a massive market (the largest in the world) with alleys of different types of goods, so look at a map beforehand. Here's a good map and description of the various markets at this Puce.
Go in the morning as it becomes very crowded in the afternoon, and the French like to close for lunch and pack-up early.
Don't bother bringing your passport because antiques don't have VAT refunds.
Bring plenty of cash and only one or two essential credit cards because most vendors don't take credit cards.
When negotiating, the French will generally go down by 20%, but be careful not to offend the vendor with too low of an offer. The French will walk away if you insult them. Ask "le meillieur prix" for the vendor's best offer.
If you're planning on going "big", contact a shipper, such as Hedley's Humpers, beforehand. The shipper will pick up your goods for shipment.

Photos by Brooklyn Boheme.

October 24, 2015

Paris Street Style: Fall is For Fur

by Brandi Brown in Style Bar

Paris street fashion this October was dominated by two trends, moto jackets and fur. The two trends married at times, with a fur scarf wrapped on top of a moto jacket - this was probably my favorite look. But, as the Fall weather became more crisp with the threat of Winter around the corner, the moto jackets were shed and the streets were filled in uniform-like-fashion with fur. Even the Parisian men participated in the fur street fashion, wearing fur on the collars of their parkas. I have never been so upset with myself for failing to bring my vintage fur jacket (thank you, grandma) on a trip - as I don't get many (meaning, none) chances to wear a fur jacket in the San Francisco climate. Here is a round-up of this Fall season's best of Paris street style fur (or faux fur, as you like).

If I saw this shaggy jacket on the clothing rack, I would think "muppet". But, I must admit that it looks 70s stylish paired with denim and aviator glasses.

I love this 1930s vintage stole look perfected by Olivia Palermo. Finally, the vintage fur stoles tucked in closets for decades can be paraded on the streets!

The combo of a soft fur scarf with a sleek moto jacket, just may be my favorite trend of the moment.

Fur pairs equally well with glamorous silver heals and chunky silver jewelry.

A cape is one of my all time favorite accessories, and it was just perfected with this fur hood.

Here are two very elegant choices, but I might prefer the "simplicity" of Olivia Palermo's wrap over the Alexander Wang inspired layers.

An emerald green shaggy fur coat that could, again, easily fall victim to a muppet, but this looks amazing on Karmen Pedaru (of course, she has an advantage as a model).

This looks is the coup d'etat of the current Paris street fashion moment: black ripped skinny jeans, moto boots, Panama hat, and fur, et voila you are a Parisian!

Looking to bring a little Paris street sensibility to your closet? Here's a roundup of my favorite fur accessories of the season that will add a Paris punch to any outfit.

October 21, 2015

Parisian by Design

by Brandi Brown in Interiors

Being fresh back from Paris, where I saw so many beautiful things, I am currently inspired by the Parisian's seemingly effortless decor style - the curated undecorated look. I spent several days scouring the puce, brocantes and iconic design stores brimming throughout the Parisian streets, in hopes of finding objets d'art that would replicate Paris's iconic beauty at home. And, another several days wondering in and out of the most fashionable hotels and couture shops for design inspiration. Every where I looked, the Parisian design sensibility was awe inspiring - emulating their fashion sense, Parisian decor balances the perfect mix of old and new in an artfully curated way that appears effortless. Here are some design tips worth stealing from the Parisians to make your home look like the coup d'etat of the bohemian, curated, layered chicness that, well, defines Paris style.

L'Art of Mix-n-Match. The Parisians have perfected the art of mixing flea market finds and different styles and periods. It is common to see a modern Philippe Starck Ghost Chair juxtaposed against an antique French farm table, or a Louis XV inlaid bureau topped with a contemporary sculpture. Period pieces of all sorts are welcome in a single room, creating a "collected over time" look.

Vintage Curiosities. Paris is famous for its many brocantes. I always plan my Parisian trip around puce market days (generally Saturday and Sunday), ensuring that I have at least two days to scout my favorite puce in Paris, Porte de Vanve. The idea of unveiling a 19th Century gilded mirror at the puce for the price of a cheap lunch (say $25) makes me giddy like a five year old on Christmas morning. Parisians frequent these brocantes in search of unique vintage accessories and curiosities that make their homes distinct and unreplicable.

French Gilt. Modern Parisian interiors are not generally flashy, but they do have a bit of worn sparkle in the form of a gilded picture frame, gilded mirror or gilded side board. Gilt is used sparingly but it is an essential piece of the Parisian decor puzzle. It pairs well against white washed walls and pops against modern saturated colors. The goal is not bright yellow gold, but a faded warm gilded piece that looks like it's been around since Marie Antoinette.

White Washed. Paris homes tend to be dark (unless they occupy the top floor and are drenched with sunlight), so it's no surprise that most Parisians prefer to keep their walls white washed. No doubt the period architectural details and moldings of the typical Parisian home help to prevent the white from washing out the character of the space. But, don't fret if you have a modern space void of architectural details, keep the walls white and add pops of character with dramatic drapes, colorful rugs and graphic art, or perhaps an accent wall.

Antique Rugs. Parisian spaces tend to be grounded by at least one large antique rug, or layered with smaller antique rugs. The rugs still allow the lovely wood flooring to peak out from beneath but add texture, warmth and color (as well as muffle the echoing sound of high heels walking on the wooden floor). A patterned or saturated colorful rug will pop against those white washed walls, in perfect harmony.

Dramatic Drapes. Ceiling to floor drapes, generously puddling on the floor, add a Parisian punch to any space. As an added bonus, they also visually enhance the height of any room. Silk, linen or velvet drapes will do, just don't forget the hardware to loosely pull the drapes back from the window.

Chandeliers Galore. Parisians love chandeliers, whether they be opulent crystal and gilt like those in Versailles or modern over sized geometrical shapes (like paper lanterns found at Ikea). It doesn't matter, just hang something grande! This may be one of the easiest ways to add that je ne sais quoi to a room.

Fresh Flowers. Flower markets are abound in Paris, allowing Parisians to easily pick-up seasonal bouquets to bring the colors and scents of the season into their home. Bouquets are artfully displayed in antique apothecary jars, chinoiserie jars or modern sculptural ceramics. Fresh flowers brighten any space with an organic element.

October 9, 2015

Packing for Paris

by Brandi Brown in Jet Set

I'm off today for Paris (and London)! I've just pulled out my carry-on suitcase (yes, carry-on...no checked luggage for this gal) and am strategically planning my outfits for the week. My strategy is to leave plenty of space in my carry-on for room to bring home brocante and vintage couture treasures while at the same time packing suitable ensembles to avoid the "Homeless" look. I err on the side of under packing because, well, why fret about whether you brought enough undies, socks or pants when there are laundries widely available in Paris (or you could just buy more)?

When packing for any destination, I try to pack staple pieces that are culturally appropriate - for Paris (Parisians are known for their effortless fashion ensembles, usually coordinated in muted tones and always with a scarf), this means basic black and gray layers - I opt for a basic black T by Bailey 44, long-sleeve gray T by Barneys, gray cashmere cape by Skull Cashmere, black leggings by Ella Moss and a navy skull-print scarf, and comfortable (but fashionable) tennies. These clothing pieces accomplish my goal of soft thin textures that are easily rolled (less volume), intermixable and wrinkle free! I also always pack a chic but cotton dress noir - mixes great with a cape and ballet flats, and you never know when you might be invited to a dignitary's for dinner!

Dress Noir for the hypothetical Dignitary dinner.

Since Paris weather can be moody, chic layers are an essential. Layers also allow you to change your "look" without extra luggage weight. That one pair of jeans can go from tourist trailblazer to cocktail hour elegant with the change of a top and accessories. I like to keep a pair of ballet flats in my handbag, so I can easily switch out my touristy trainers for smart shoes before a shopping or site seeing pit stop into a restaurant or bar (who has time to head back to the hotel first?).

Follow my adventures in Paris on Instagram! I'll be back in a week! A Bien Tot.

All images by Brooklyn Boheme unless otherwise noted.

October 4, 2015

Paris Address Book: Eat + Drink

by Brandi Brown in Jet Set

My Parisian holiday is rapidly approaching (just a week away!), and I can barely concentrate on anything other than planning my foodie and watering-hole route de Paris. We have some wonderful farm to table restaurants and artisanal cocktails in San Francisco, but nothing compares to the insanely delicious culinary delights offered on virtually every corner in Paris. With so many choices and a limited amount of time in Paris, you need a gastronomic plan! Here is my short guide to the "current musts" for Parisian dining+drinking (admittedly, it was no easy task to narrow down the ridiculous amount of gourmand choices and this is by no mean an exhaustive list).

Pain et Chocolate

Boulangerie: Du Pain et Des Idees - recognized by French editorials as the "superstar" boulangerie, and I whole-heartedly agree. Du Pain et Des Idees is a block from Canal St. Martin in the 10th Arr., a bit off the main tourist trail, but it's worth every single step. I recommend the Pain Chocolate.
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75001 Paris
Métro: Republique

Patisserie: Gérard Mulot - centrally located in the 6th Arr., this patisserie and chocolate shop offers jewel-like creations. The house Mûre-Mûre ganache is the specialty. But really, you can't go wrong with any patisserie selection here.
76, rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
Métro: Mabillon or Odéon

Macaroons: Ladurée - the original Parisian Macaroon dating back to 1862. Their Salted Caramel Macaroon just may be heaven in your mouth, and once you've had this Macaroon, you'll snub all others. A Parisian once explained to me that the original Ladurée is far superior to any other Ladurée outpost due to its "baking conditions" and their impact on the delicate Macaroon. Having tried Ladurée throughout Paris, NY and Tokyo, I must agree with him. Head straight to the original House and skip the others.
16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris
Métro: Madeleine

Chocolate Chaud: Angelina - the indulgent, rich, thick cup of molten chocolate - known as Chocolate Chaud - keeps me coming back to this institutional tea house time and time again. The belle epoque interior of this 110 year old tea house have seen the likes of Coco Chanel and Parisian aristocracy.

Boissons - Cocktails

Fashionable Bar: Ralph's Bar - exemplifies how to be an American in Paris. Ralph Lauren's gem of a bar on the Left Bank serves up swanky drinks and fashionable people watching. Tucked inside the Ralph Lauren flagship store, this is a great pit stop for a martini shopping break.
173 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
Métro: Saint Germain des Prés
Local Wine Bar: Le Quinze Vins - having stumbled upon this casual wine bar while wondering around the Seine (one of my favorite pastimes in Paris is to get lost - you never know what you'll find down a winding cobblestone passage), it has become a "go to". The wine selection regularly changes and the nibbles are limited to regional charcuterie + cheese (as they should be). Skip the expensive cheese at the restaurant and head to this local wine bar for an after dinner treat.
1 rue Dante, 75005 Paris
Métro: Maubert

Cuisine

Casual Gourmet: Frenchie Bar a Vins - don't be fooled by the wine bar title (or the seemingly tourist trap of a name, "Frenchie"), this is probably the best meal I've ever had in Paris. Served up in an intimate wine bar that is the little brother to the famed Frenchie Restaurant across the street, the inventive small bites melt in your mouth hitting every taste bud along the way. Ask for a table overlooking the petite kitchen for a theatrical show to accompany your meal. No reservations taken, so show up 15 minutes before opening time to ensure a seat.
5-6 rue Du Nil, 75002 Paris
Métro: Sentier
Modern Bistro: Le Comptoir du Relais St. Germain - classic by lunchtime and sophisticated by night. While a dinner reservation may be impossible (unless you are staying at the adjoining hotel), they generally have tables at lunch time - though you just may have to wait in line. This modern gourmet bistro serves seasonal classic fare and is a staple on my bistro circuit.
Next door, tucked into a narrow hallway of a space, is the outfit's affiliate L'Avant Comptoir Wine Bar. Great place for a quick glass of natural wine and delicious tapa snack to fuel your tourist body. Standing room only, so don't expect to kick-back and relax at this wine bar.
9 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris
Métro: Odéon

Trattoria: Restaurant Heimat - an Italian stand-out located within arched stone walls below the street. At lunchtime, this restaurant is filled to the brim with suits - a testament to its worthiness. Within walking distance to the Louvres and adjacent to the fashionable galleries of Le Petit Palace, this is a wonderful non-touristy option boasting delicate fish options and a phenomenal wine list.
37 rue de Montpensier, 75001 Paris
Métro: Pyramides
Gastronomic Bistro: Les Papilles - a wine store by day and an enchanting restaurant at night serving one prix fixe meal (no menu required because the chef's offering is that good). In the heart of the Latin Quarter near Jardins du Luxembourg, this bistro is central and delicious. Make sure to book ahead because they have only a handful of tables.
30 rue Gay Lussac, 75005 Paris
Métro: Odeon
Michelin Excellence: Epicure - is THE spot for those in search of a worthy Michelin star meal (Epicure has 3 stars!). Epicure exemplifies everything that Michelin represents - seasonal, inventive, beautiful and delicious. If a costly dinner is outside of your budget, Epicure offers a budget friendly prix fixe option at lunch. Conveniently located on the courtier street of rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris
Métro: Miromesnil

Epicure images by Becca Wahlquist. All other images by Brooklyn Boheme.